If you have problems sewing with a specific foot try taping the bottom of the foot with masking tape. This should prevent the foot sticking to the fabric and improve the feed. Masking Tape — Sewing Machine Bed: Certain fabrics such as oil cloth often have a textured side and a sticky side. Whenever possible we recommend sewing with the sticky side UP, against the presser foot and dealing with any problems with the above recommendations.
However some fabrics are sticky and problematic on both sides, and therefore you may have trouble with these sticking to the bed of the sewing machine. A method to prevent this would be to tape the bed of the sewing machine with masking tape. Be cautious when taping and do not tape over the feed dogs or the needle entry point. Even a small amount of masking tape will help move the fabric through the sewing machine.
TIP: Do not leave masking tape on the sewing machine for too long, maximum a day or two. Otherwise it can leave a sticky residue behind. Use Tissue Paper or Fabric Stabiliser: Another option for sewing oil cloth is to use a layer of tissue paper or fabric stabiliser.
Position the tissue paper or fabric stabiliser onto the fabric before sewing, this MUST be positioned on the side of the fabric that is problematic. Sew over the layer of tissue paper, fabric stabiliser and simply tear away or wash away depending on the product you are using after sewing. Alternatively add a lining to your project so that the lining fabric can face the bed of the sewing machine.
Should a stain be especially persistent, soapy water and a sponge can be used. Storage Solutions — Roll oilcloth and tie the rolls with a scrap of ribbon. Avoid folding oilcloth as this will create creases. Should the oilcloth become creased lay it out on the floor and allow it to relax for 24 or more hours. If the creases are severe, use a blow dryer on low heat to warm the fabric and hopefully remove the crease.
Be careful not to melt the fabric! Use these tips to create a fun oilcloth project today! To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend you use a pressing cloth between your iron and the wrong side of the laminated cotton. NOTE: If you try a higher temperature setting on your iron, the moisture has nowhere to go because of the lamination.
We wanted to touch on interfacings and battings, because you might choose to make a raincoat or even a tote bag that will require an added layer between your layers of laminated cotton. There are a multitude of interfacings and battings. In general, you want to avoid anything fusible which means anything you need to use an iron to apply. Opt instead for the sew-in type, or non- fusible. An exception to this rule are some of the heavier flannel-backed vinyls and even oilcloth, which are thick enough to withstand the higher heat required for fusible products.
Even so, use a pressing cloth when fusing. As we mentioned above, if you you want to hold non-fusibles in place prior to sewing, try a temporary spray adhesive. The laminate coating keeps the edges from fraying. However, here are Sew4Home, we usually like to finish seams so the inside of the project looks as nice as the outside.
For this reason, we decided to provide you with an overview of some finishing options. The simplest finish is to use pinking shears to create a nice, neat edge. You can wrap the raw edge with binding. Another simple finish for a hemline is a single fold sewn in place with a straight stitch. A zig zag stitch is a common finish for seam allowances that fray, like a regular cotton. It takes a few more steps, but if you will easily see the inside of your project, like on a raincoat or a large tote bag, a French seam is a lovely finish.
Fold the fabric along the seam line so it is now right sides together, enclosing the previously sewn edge. We chose paper clips this time. The seam is now pretty from both sides. If you want the seam to be completely flat, finger press it to one side. Lengthen your stitch to approximately 3. We also recommend using a larger needle , or a topstitch needle.
For more information, take a look at our four-part series on Machine Sewn Seam Finishes. As with the French seam above, use a longer stitch and a larger or topstitch needle. You will definitely need to finger press the edge and, in addition to your finger pressing , use one of the suggested methods suggested above for holding the edge in place while you sew. If you own a serger , you can serge the raw edges prior to sewing the pieces together. And here we go again! As we mentioned above, when you purchase laminate fabric from your local fabric shop it is normally displayed on a roll.
If you are buying online, most savvy retailers automatically ship their laminated cottons on a roll. If not, your beautiful new laminate fabric will arrive folded up and creased everywhere.
You can refer to the pressing tips above. Finish the edges, if desired. Since the edges of oilcloth won't fray, you don't have to hem or finish the edges. If you'd like a decorative look, finish the edges by cutting them with pinking shears or decorative scissors. You can also hem the edges for a classic finished look. For example, cut just the edges with zigzag edge scissors to make a fun look. It would probably not work as well, but you can definitely attempt it! Make sure it's sharp so you get the best cut.
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